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Understanding
Pan Structure
In the discussions on Understanding
Pan Metals, I noted the rates
of heat transfer in different metals called the
"thermo-conductivity coefficient." It gives the calories of
heat that the metal transfers over a centimeter of length in one second,
measured in the metric system (Celsius). The rates for the commonly used
metals in pans are as follows. The higher the number, the greater the
speed of heat conductivity.
Copper .94
Pure Aluminum .53
Cast Aluminum .33
Steel .16
Cast Iron .12
Stainless Steel .05
Using the following
mathematical formula, the optimum thickness for even distribution of
heat within a pan's interior surface, so that hot spots are avoided, can
be calculated.
thickness of
metal x thermo-conductivity coefficient = 2.65 (THERMCO)
The optimum thickness for
metals most commonly used for pans is as follows:
Copper 2.82 millimeters
Pure Aluminum 5 millimeters
Cast Aluminum 8.03 millimeters
Steel 16.56 millimeters
Cast Iron 22.08 millimeters
Stainless Steel 53 millimeters
It is for this reason that Mauviel
and Bourgeat
both make copper pans that are 2.5 to 3 millimeters thick, and Sitram,
Mauviel,
Bourgeat,
and Demeyere
all make stainless steel pans with a 5 millimeter or thicker aluminum
thermo-conductive base.
What does this mean for
particular kinds of pans used in a kitchen?
Most Pans
Most pans only need a thermo-conductive base. That is because heat need
only come at the food from the bottom.

This is obviously true of fry
pans, sauté pans, and rondeaus (low casseroles). But it is also true of
saucepans, stew pots, and stock pots. Thermo-conductive sides in such
pans actually waste heat by moving it up the sides where it radiates
into the air around the pan. Thermo-conductive sides also add
unnecessary weight and expense to the pan.

Pan w/ Thermo-Conductive Core
However, solid copper pans and
solid aluminum pans are made by pressing the metal into shape, and thus
the sides are as thick as the base. It is the efficient way to make such
pans, regardless of the lack of need and extra weight for cooking
purposes.
It is a different matter for
stainless steel pans and cast aluminum pans. Stainless pans are pressed
and a thermo-conductive base attached. As heat moves into the pan
interior, the stainless steel, being a poor conductor, keeps it in the
pans for efficient cooking. Cast aluminum pans are molded so the base is
thicker than the sides.
Slow Cooker, Stove Top Oven
A (1) slow cooker, such as made by Demeyere
- 2.5 millimeter aluminum core, (2) stove top oven, such as made by Le
Creuset, or (3) special buffet casserole and stew pot, such as made
by Mauviel
in the Induc'inox line, all have medium thick thermo-conductive bases
and sides. This is because the intent is to get heat coming at the food
from all directions, as in an oven, even though used on a burner. Also,
since the food is cooked at a low temperature for an extended length of
time, the metal does not have to be optimum thickness to avoid hot
spots. The low temperature is also the reason carbon steel and cast iron
can be used: the metals gradually heat up and hold the heat for slow,
lengthy cooking. Le
Creuset's unique feature is the heavy cast iron lid which heats up
slowly but (1) radiates significant heat down at the food and (2)
maintains a higher pressure in the pot which cooks the food a bit
faster. The Demeyere
slow cooker has a .

Le Creuset Pot w/ Thermo-Conductive Lid
Saucier
The saucier functions similar to a slow cooker. It cooks a sauce at a
relatively low temperature. For even cooking, it is best if the heat
comes at the sauce from both the bottom and sides. Thus, Demeyere
makes its sauciers with an aluminum core going through the base and up
the sides with a thickness of 2 millimeters for small sauciers, and 2.3
millimeters for large ones. Mauviel's
Induc'inox splayed saucepans serve the same function with a
thermo-conductive carbon steel core going through the base and up the
sides. Every All-Clad
pan is constructed on the optimum principle for a saucier pan.
Wok, Stir Fry Pan
Hot spots are not a major problem for woks even though high temperatures
are used in cooking. This is because the food is (1) constantly stirred,
(2) oil is used for deep-frying, or (3) water is used for steaming.
Moreover, it is desirable to have a significant heat difference between
the base and sides when stir-frying. This is so cooked foods can be
moved from the base to the sides to keep warm, but not continue cooking,
as other foods are put in the bottom to begin cooking or left in the
bottom for further cooking. For this reason, carbon steel woks work
well. Demeyere
uses a 1.3 millimeter aluminum core in its woks; it is thick enough for
good heat conductivity in the base, but preserves the heat difference in
the sides (not too little, but not too much heat in the sides).
Fish Poachers
Because both water and a low temperature are used in poaching, hot spots
are not a problem. You do not need a thermo-conductive base.
Roasting Pans and Roasters
Because ovens bring gentle heat to a pan from all directions, neither a
thermo-conductive base nor sides are needed. You just need a pan that
will not warp. If you bring the pan from the oven to a burner to deglaze
it, since you will be using water and stirring constantly, hot spots are
not a problem.
Demeyere and Mauviel
Only Demeyere
makes pans with different optimal thermo-conductive structures to fit
the function of the pan. That is one reason it is our benchmark pan. Mauviel
makes two different lines of pans - Pro-inox and Induc'inox - which have
different thermo-conductive structures. Pro-inox pans have an optimally
thick thermo-conductive base; Induc'inox has a thick thermo-conductive
core.
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