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Pacific Northwest Notes

Lake Crescent Lodge

We just got back from 10 days in the Pacific Northwest. Gail was born in North Dakota and spent her early childhood there, but moved to the state of Washington during her grade school days. I was born and raised in the Puget Sound region. We both went to Everett public schools and met in junior high.

We had quite a number of delectable experiences. There are a few I want to mention in this letter.

Lake Crescent Lodge

One spot we really enjoy is Lake Crescent Lodge on the Olympic Peninsula just west of Port Angeles. The lake is surrounded by mountains; the shore line is almost entirely uninhabited. The lodge is situated on a spit of land made by deposits of silt over several thousand years. It is extremely beautiful and unusually tranquil: deep blue water protected by towering pine trees. Quiet hiking trails take one into the primeval woods adorned with drapes of delicate moss and up to picturesque Merymere Falls. The land and lodge are owned by the federal government. There are no phones and no televisions. And there are not very many rooms or cabins. The main lodge building goes back many years to the time when the location could only be reached by boat. It has a huge stone fireplace and a protected terrace with a view of the lake. The restaurant also has a view of the lake. We like the delicious king salmon dinner and wild berry pie. There is a quaint bar which can provide you with a drink to sip as you enjoy the view of the lake. The phone number for reservations is not easy to come by;
it is (360) 928-3211.

Gardner's Restaurant in South Bend

We both love oysters. When we drove through South Bend, Washington on Willapa Bay, we could not help but notice that it claimed to be the oyster capital of the world. We stopped at the East Point Seafood Market, but since we had no way to cook oysters, we purchased two cooked dungeness crabs. We located a county park down the road situated on a bluff above the bay. Our picnic table had a breathtaking panoramic view of Willapa bay. The crab was delectable: fresh, delicate, tasting of the sea. Several days later, on the way back through South Bend, we asked at the Market where we could get some good fried oysters. We were directed to Gardner's restaurant, an unassuming building on the main road through town, coastal highway 101. It is small; there are probably only 12 tables in the restaurant. But it is pleasant, done inside entirely in pine. The menu encouraged us; it mentioned the chef by name: Gerry Schultz. We could see his shelf of cook books from our table, many of the ones we have. We ordered both baked oysters and fried oysters. The fried oysters were the best we have ever had; plump and fresh with a crisp coating that tasted like they were fried in butter. The baked were also good, but had too much hot pepper for us. Gerry had an interesting entree we want to try next time called, I believe, "Treasure Chest." It is a selection of local sea food cooked in puff pastry. If you can make it to South Bend, definitely get some fried oysters at Gardner's, available as an appetizer or entree. If you try the baked oysters, ask Gerry if he can go easy on the hot pepper. Gardner's phone number is (360) 875-5154. They are open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Rialto and Ruby Beaches

I want to bring your attention to three ocean beaches worth visiting. The first two are Rialto Beach just north and east of Forks, Washington and Ruby Beach just south and west of Forks. Forks is on the west side of the Olympic Peninsula. You can drive right up to Rialto beach. It has a wonderful, wild, natural maze of driftwood with picnic tables placed in their midst. You have a view of the ocean and the majestic rocks and small islands off shore. Ruby Beach is a short hike down a bluff. There are no picnic tables but you can eat sitting on driftwood. It too has majestic rock formations and also caves in the bluff. At low tide you can walk completely around some of the towering rocks and check out the caves. Last year we bought picnic food in Forks and ate at Rialto Beach; this year we did the same but ate at Ruby Beach. Eating at these beaches is not just fun; it is awesome. Good food enjoyed in such sublime settings is gourmet life at its best.

Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach in Oregon is also worth visiting. It too has majestic rocks off shore, and a historic lighthouse on a small rock island. The beach is wide and long, perfect for walking and jogging. In addition, the quaint and picturesque village of Canon Beach, with its many shops and restaurants, is a delight. You will marvel at the profusion of flowers. The seeds can be purchased at the Information Center. And you can stay right at the beach; there are many fine motels.

What I want to mention in particular is Dooger's Seafood & Grill located at the south end of town. It has three selections that are worth trying. The first is their clam chowder. It is the best we have ever had. In a recent contest, it came out first, winning the 3-clam award, and justly so. The second is their marionberry cobbler. Order it with ice cream. Although not superb, it is very good. And last is their eggs and oysters. Oysters for breakfast, with eggs? Yes. The oysters are small, delicate, and delicious. They are deep fried with a very light batter coating. You can get them pan fried if you like.