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Grilling
Part IV - Cuts of Beef Used for Grilling
Grilling is a dry heat method of cooking in
which the radiant heat coming from below constantly hits the food.
Because the heat is constant and usually fairly intense, grilling is a
rather quick method of cooking. Since grilling is (1) a dry heat
method and also (2) quick, there is no time for the connective tissue in
meat known as "collagen" to break down and gelatinize. For
that reason, the meat used in grilling usually has little connective tissue.
In other words, the cuts are naturally tender. Ground meat is used in
grilling because the connective tissue, both the collagen and elastin, are
mechanically tenderized by being ground up, one of the few ways to tenderize
elastin.
Sections of a Steer
For the purposes of identifying cuts of meat, a steer is divided into
nine sections. The top part of the steer has four of the sections.
From front to back they are as follows: chuck, rib,
short loin, and sirloin. The hind end and legs are a
section known as the round. The lower part of the steer has three of
the sections. From front to back they are as follows: shank
& brisket, short plate, and flank.
The muscles of the front legs (the
"shank") and shoulder (the "chuck") work hard and for
that reason are fibrous and tough. The muscles of the back legs and
rump (known as the "round") also work hard and also are fibrous
and tough, but not as tough as the front legs and shoulder. Meat from
the front and rear is also dark and flavorful, due to an abundance of the
protein myoglobin, which captures oxygen used when muscles work.
Other than ground beef, the cuts of beef used
most in grilling are steaks. Most steaks come from the center
area of a steer, which has the tenderest meat.
Cuts of Steak
Most
of the steaks you are used to come from the upper three parts. The
meat is primarily a steer's
longissimus dorsi muscle. It runs from the steer's neck to
its rump. Rib steaks, with or without the bone, come from the rib area.
The rib steak with the bone and cap muscles removed is called a
"delmonico" and also "rib eye" steak. A T-bone
steak comes from the front part of the short loin. Porterhouse steaks
come from rear part of the short loin. Sirloin steaks come from the
sirloin part.
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One of the few steaks that does not come from
the central part of the steer is what today
butcher
departments call "London broil." Technically, "London
Broil" is not a cut of meat, but a way of preparing a cut of beef.
Now, though, the term is used to label a cut. That cut comes from the
round or rear of the steer. The muscle on the outer part of the
steer's back leg is called the "bottom round;" the muscle on the
inner part the "top round." The London broil cut is taken
from the top round.
From front of steer to rear:
Rib steak: rib area. If boneless,
delmonico or rib eye.
T-bone: front part of short loin
Porterhouse: rear part of short
loin
Sirloin: sirloin area
London broil: top round
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A porterhouse is a large steak,
which contains two steaks. On one side of the bone, the larger
portion, is the strip steak; on the
other side is the tenderloin or fillet steak. The strip steak, often called
"New York strip," is the outer muscle of the steer; the fillet is
the inner muscle. Because the fillet is on the inside, it is worked
little and is very tender. Using "fillet" in our
description, we can say that the porterhouse steak is the last three or four
steaks of the short loin region where the fillet portion gets large.
The T-bone steak which comes from the front part of the short loin has a
small portion of fillet steak on it.
Porterhouse: strip
steak and fillet steak
Strip steak: outer muscle of rear short loin area
Fillet: inner muscle of rear short loin area
T-bone steak: strip steak and small fillet steak
The
tenderloin is the tenderest steak; it is also a very lean steak. A
full tenderloin runs from the short loin section into the sirloin section.
In the short loin section it is called a "short tenderloin;" in
the sirloin section it is called the "butt tenderloin." This
prized steak goes by a number of names: châteaubriand, tournedos,
filet mignon, medallions, and tenderloin tips.
Tenderloin or fillet:
the tenderest steak. Also called châteaubriand, tournedos,
filet mignon, medallions, and tenderloin tips.
Two steaks come from the lower
area of the central section of the cow. The skirt steak, a long narrow
steak, comes from the plate and rib area. It runs along the last ribs of the
steer; it is the steer's diaphram muscle. The flank steak comes from
the flank. The muscle fibers of a skirt steak, called the
"grain," run the width of the steak; the grain of the flank steak
runs the length of the steak.
Lower area of steer from front
to back:
Skirt steak: from plate and rib area; runs along last ribs
Flank steak: from flank area
Characteristics of the Steaks
Each can be marinated in soy
sauce and garlic, and seasoned with a rub. An acidic fluid, such as
Balsamic vinegar or wine, tenderizes by breaking down the connective tissue
known as "collagen."
Rib steak: the
steak most marbled with fat. It is tender, flavorful, and juicy for
that reason. No need to marinate in olive oil; it has lots of its own
fat.
T-bone steak: less marbling and less tender than a rib steak.
Has a small portion of fillet. Can be marinated in both olive oil and
an acidic fluid such as Balsamic vinegar.
Strip steak: tender and lean; can be marinated in both olive oil
and an acidic fluid.
Fillet: lean but very tender. Can be marinated in olive
oil because of lack of fat content. Do not marinate in an acidic fluid
for any length of time; it could become mushy.
Porterhouse: a combination of strip and fillet. An
awesome steak. Can be marinated in acidic fluid, but only for a short
time because of the fillet; you do not want it to become mushy.
Sirloin: tougher than the above steaks. Helps to marinate in
an acidic fluid.
Skirt steak: tougher than the above steaks but well marbled.
Helps to marinate in an acidic fluid; cook only medium rare and slice
against the grain. See
Kimbra Martin's Skirt steak recipe.
Flank steak: tougher than the above steaks. Helps to
marinate in an acidic fluid; cook only medium rare and slice against the
grain. See Kimbra Martin's Gingered Beef with Vegetables recipe.
London broil: tougher than the above steaks. Helps to
marinate in an acidic fluid; cook only medium rare and slice against the
grain.
Blooming
One last note about steaks. When beef is first cut, it is purple
in color. Within 10 minutes after exposure to air, the myoglobin
protein will capture oxygen and the steak will turn a bright red. This
is called "blooming." This initial oxidation of meat adds to
its flavor; it is also a sign of freshness. After several days of
exposure to oxygen, the myoglobin loses its ability to bind oxygen and the
meat will turn brown. The meat is no longer fresh and will have lost
some of its flavor components.
At some point in the future, I
will discuss the aging of meat. The aging of meat is different from
the phenomenon of blooming.

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