Essential
Culinary Garden Herbs
Part II

Two weeks ago I began a discussion of the essential herbs for your kitchen garden. They are parsley, basil, mint, chives, oregano, sorrel, tarragon, thyme, and rosemary.  My discussion of parsley, mint, basil, and chives is in Part I. So that brings us to oregano, sorrel, tarragon, thyme, and rosemary.

Sorrel (Rumex scutatus) is one of my favorite herbs. Its light green leaves have a slightly tart but refreshing flavor. The tartness is due to oxalic acid. The herb is a perennial, regrowing each spring. I use sorrel in salads throughout the summer. The French use it in sorrel soup along with tomatoes and chicken stock. There are two kinds of sorrel: English and French. I have both in my herb garden. My English sorrel is about 15 years old; my French about five. The English variety has large leaves which are tarter and tougher than the French herb. I have to cut the English plant back often so the leaves stay young and tender. The French herb has small delicate leaves with a beautiful wavy arrowhead shape. The plant is low growing like a ground cover. It puts forth many flowering stems which turn to seed; cut those regularly to keep the leaves numerous and lush. The plant likes full sun and a well-drained soil. I have mine on the side of a raised mound right off my back porch. To harvest the French variety, simply cut off some of the stems, rinse, and then snip off the little leaves. You can put them whole in salad.

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) is also one of my favorites. It is a noble plant with a powerful anise flavor. A few leaves will flavor an entire chicken. The plant is a perennial, dying back in the winter and resurrecting in the spring. Plant it in full sun on a bit of raised ground so it has good drainage. There are two varieties: Russian and French. The French plant has smaller leaves with a more subtle flavor. My plant is French. I have had it for over 20 years. Its flavor may be milder than the Russian variety, but it is plenty potent. Its Latin name, "dracunculus," means little dragon. The herb was thought to heal the bites of poisonous snakes and spiders. Tarragon is used in béarnaise sauce, herb butter, and flavored vinegar, sparingly in omelets and salads. It is an ingredient in fines herbes: 1 part parsley, 1 part chervil, 1/2 part chives, 1-2 leaves tarragon. I use it to flavor grilled chicken breasts. Simply place a few leaves across the breast like stripes on a zebra and grill; when done, grind some sea salt and black pepper over it. To harvest, simply pluck off a stem or a few leaves.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris), I am reluctant to admit, is loved by me not primarily for its culinary use, but its pleasant tiny delicate flowers and aroma. I enjoy rubbing my hands over the leaves and then inhaling the fragrant aroma. It makes me feel blessed by God. There are many varieties of thyme, including lemon and caraway. I have several, but cannot remember what they are. Thyme is used to flavor vinegar, cheese dishes, grilled meats, and salads. I use thyme in a bouquet garni for soup and stews. The plant is low growing, hugging the ground, and likes poor soil, which we have a lot of in Western Pennsylvania. It is a perennial, coming back year after year. Harvest it by cutting a stem or just pulling off some of the tiny leaves. Half the fun is the harvest, the release of a heavenly aroma.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a relatively new herb to my garden. Its name in Latin means dew of the sea. I have never read a good explanation of that; if you have one, let me know. The herb is supposed to improve the memory: "There's rosemary, that's for remembrance," a famous line from Hamlet. If you don't remember that, it is probably because you have not been getting enough rosemary. In any case, rosemary is a pretty plant of long noble stems with elegant leaves bursting forth all along them. It, like thyme, is very aromatic. Its aroma is supposed to heal sinus infections. It is a favorite to flavor lamb, apples, and vinegar. I grow it for one reason only: to flavor focaccia for dipping in extra virgin olive oil. Out here in Western Pennsylvania, it has to be planted each year, but it is worth it. Plant it in full sun and harvest it by plucking off a stem or a few leaves. Mix some leaves right in the dough of the bread and bake.

Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is a member of the mint family, labiatae, and has the same aggressive instincts. It will take over your whole garden if you let it. The name "oregano" comes from the Greek for mountain and joy; I guess it means a lot of joy. For that reason it was part of the crown worn by bridal couples in Greece. The plant is a perennial. Put it in a pot in the ground to contain its imperial will to power. Its obvious use is in tomato and pizza sauces. That is how I use it. I put the leaves fresh on pizzas cooked on the grill. The fresh leaves are a lot milder than the dried, so you can use them with some abandon. The leaves are also good finely cut and sprinkled on fresh garden tomatoes with a little extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and pepper. Harvest the plant by simply pinching off the tip of a stem.