Sugar and Spice for Christmas Beverages
A column by Ann Wilder, President of Vanns Spices.

During the Christmas Season and throughout the winter, hot mulled drinks made with cider, wine, coffee, tea, and milk are favorites the world over.

There are many variations of mulled spices, but in general, cracked or whole cinnamon sticks and whole cloves are used. The best cinnamon for this purpose is Ceylon cinnamon, also known as "true" cinnamon (see our discussion on cinnamon), which has a subtler flavor. The bark of the tree of "true" cinnamon is easily recognized because it is paper thin and pale brown in color. Allspice berries, orange peel, cardamom, and star anise appear often in mulling spice mixes. Fresh fruit drinks, especially citrus, and various alcoholic beverages are favored for use. Punch actually originated in India where it is customary to use five ingredients. The Indian word for five is panch, which soon became anglicized to punch.

We are all familiar with the wonderful aroma and flavor of hot mulled cider. There is nothing more comforting on a cold day and nothing simpler. Add a few whole cloves, 2 sticks of cinnamon, orange peel, star anise, and allspice berries to your apple cider or buy a good mulling spice mix. Heat, but do not boil. Strain and serve. Feel free to add or subtract spices to your taste.

This same group of spices appears again in New Orleans in Café Brulot. In a bowl, mix the peel of one orange, 4 small cinnamon sticks, 12 whole cloves, and six lumps of sugar. Pour 1/2 cup of brandy over these ingredients. Ignite and stir until the sugar dissolves. Strain into 4 cups of freshly brewed coffee.

As long as alcoholic drinks have been made, they have been the base of warming and soothing spiced drinks. Mulled wines are festive uses of ordinary bottles of still or sparkling wines. Heat, but do not boil, 1 quart or more of red wine. Make a syrup of sugar, water, and mulling spices. Boil 5 minutes, strain and add to wine. Thinly sliced lemons add a fresh note to this beverage.

In Germany, gluhwein, meaning "to glow," is the favorite drink. Begin with a base of red wine to which mulling spices have been added. For each 2 cups, add 1/2 cup of orange juice and a handful of golden raisins. Traditionally, gluhwein is kept hot by setting it on a hearth near the fire. This same recipe appears in Sweden with the addition of almonds.

The French prefer white wine with a different spice mixture. They use cinnamon, orange peel, sugar, and cracked nutmegs, but no cloves. This group of spices not only makes great mulled wine, but also is wonderful in eggnog. To prepare, place the spices in brandy, bourbon, or other liquor, marinate for one hour, then add to your favorite eggnog mixture.

Warm, spiced drinks such as toddies, nogs, and grogs were popular in the 18th century. Grog refers to a mixture of rum, lemon juice, brown sugar, cinnamon, and golden raisins. The name is slang for the water-diluted rum allotted to British sailors. Toddies are easy to make: pour a measure of whiskey, rum, or brandy into a heatproof glass; add a teaspoon of sugar, a pinch of spice, and fill with boiling water. Good combinations include brandy with allspice and nutmeg, or rum with cloves or cinnamon. To turn this drink into a nog, whisk together egg and sugar and add boiling milk. Stir over low heat until it is thick and frothy. Proceed as before. Toddies were also used to cure colds.
Q. How do you know when you have had enough to effect a cure?
A. Hang one shoe over the end of the bed. When it becomes a pair, it's enough.

For hot Christmas drinks,
the following Vanns blends and cinnamon are available from
A Cook's Wares™.
  
#8979 Cinnamon Sticks, Koritje  
#8948 Saigon Cinnamon  
#8914 Mulling Spices, for mulled cider